Off the Beaten Track

Sassandra

Sassandra is best known for its wonderful beaches. But what makes it special is that it's also an ethnic Fanti fishing village, with an active port and a scenic river to explore. If you're up to trying some highly recommended bangui (palm wine), there's plenty of it here. The town was once an important trading post, but when the port at nearby San Pédro was built, it went into decline.

The beaches are all west of Sassandra, along a dirt road. The first one, big-waved Plage Le Bivouac, is walking distance from the village; for the remainder, you'll have to hitch a ride or take a taxi. The prized jewel is peaceful Poly-Plage and its tiny Fanti fishing village. Sassandra is 210km (130mi) west of Abidjan. Buses ply daily between the two.

Korhogo

Korhogo is the capital of the Senoufo people and dates from the 13th century. The Senoufo are best known for their wooden carvings and are skilled blacksmiths and potters. Most of the wood carvers live and work in a small district called the Quartier des Sculptures. The heart of town is the bustling market.

The Senoufo have secret associations, divided into the Poro cult for boys and the Sakrobundi cult for girls, through which they are prepared for adulthood. The goal is to preserve the group's folklore, teach tribal customs and instill self-control through rigorous tests. The children's education is divided into three seven-year periods, ending with an initiation ceremony involving circumcision, isolation, instruction and the use of masks. Each community has a 'sacred forest' where the training is done, and the uninitiated are never allowed to see the tests. Some ritualistic ceremonies occur in the village itself and can be witnessed by visitors. These include la dance des hommes panthères (dance of the leopard men), which takes place when the boys return from a training session in the forest.

Korhogo is over 500km (310mi) north of Abidjan. Air Ivoire has flights between the two on weekends. Buses serving the Abidjan-Korhogo route offer half a dozen departures daily. Car rental is available from Korhogo for forays into the surrounding area.

Comoë National Park

In the north-eastern corner of Côte d'Ivoire, Comoë is the largest game park in West Africa. One of the most popular tracks passes alongside the Comoë River, where most of the game comes in search of water during the dry season.

Lions tend to be abundant in the southern section, particularly in the triangle de Kapkin area. There are an estimated 100 elephants in the park, so there's an excellent chance of seeing them. Other animals include green monkey, hippo, baboon, colobus monkey, waterbuck, several species of antelope and 21 species of pig. Leopards also roam, but catching a glimpse of one is a rare treat. The park is open December to May.

Comoë is 570km (350mi) north-east of Abidjan. There are various entrances into the park, the most widely used being Kafolo in the north and Gansé and Kapkin in the south. Buses and bush taxis usually use the northern entrance.